The Westminster Cathedral’s bells, four hammers, four springs, and three questions, the watch’s ultimate interpretation of the function of the clock will certainly shock the majority of watch collectors, but BVLGARI Bulgari brings more than that. The innovative slide spring and timekeeping mechanism give BVLGARI the new L’Ammiraglio del Tempo large complex watch with vitality. The permanent movement escapement and constant force device displayed by this watch, especially as a speed regulating mechanism The latter is the ultimate interpretation of the complexity of horology.
L’Ammiraglio del Tempo means ‘admiral of time’ in Italian, referring directly to the maritime superpowers in the history of navigation: France, England, Spain and Portugal. The perpetual escapement originated in the 18th century, an era in which the nations of the sea competed for the world’s waters, and it was also an era in which watchmakers competed to create the most precise timepieces. In the era when there were no satellites, navigators used astronomical observations to determine their geographical location at sea, and they used time calculators as accurate as possible. In the unavoidable bumps and rotations of maritime vessels, it is still difficult for generations of watchmakers to focus on maintaining the stability of the timing reference to the greatest extent.
Perpetual escapement is one of the great inventions that came into being during this period, bringing unprecedented reliability in that era. Perpetual escapement not only guarantees the stability and accuracy of marine clocks and other mechanical measuring instruments, but also steadily releases the clockwork power to the intermediate medium of the balance wheel to achieve accurate timing.
In modern devices, lever escapement is more used to output kinetic energy to the balance wheel by re-impact, but the permanent motion escapement can always achieve the transmission of kinetic energy from the escape wheel to the balance wheel by a single impact. Although it doesn’t make much sense now, for sailors two and a half centuries ago, it was essential to be able to significantly improve the accuracy of the sailing clock by reducing the losses caused by friction between parts. The permanent device is the finishing touch of L’Ammiraglio del Tempo. A permanent hairspring is placed in the gear transmission chain to connect the mainspring with the escapement, and transmit a constant and stable power to the escapement with extremely low energy loss.
In the dictionary of complex clocks, the perpetual escapement is far more complicated than the tourbillon, and it is also one of the most precious devices. Most mechanical watches are equipped with a lever escapement, in addition to a few other forms of escapement. The limitation of the choice stems from the difficulty of ensuring stability in the miniature space of the watch.
The 516-part L’Ammiraglio del Tempo movement is housed in a classic Daniel Roth case. One of the highlights is that the slide spring of the watch is placed on the side of the case from 7 o’clock to 8 o’clock. This innovative design makes the overall line of the watch more smooth and beautiful than the traditional watch. The 50mm diameter, 18K rose or white gold half-open bezel makes the internal permanent escapement, hammer and gong clear. The dial is made of black or blue gold to match different metal cases. Through the bell-shaped sapphire crystal, you can see the hand-polished ‘Geneva ripple’ and the circular pattern on the movement.
L’Ammiraglio del Tempo is limited to 20 pieces in 18K rose gold and 10K in 18K white gold. Each watch has its own unique designation on the crown.
The above watch home brings the cutting-edge information of Bulgari watches at the 2014 Basel watch exhibition. For more details about the 2014 Basel watch exhibition, please pay attention to our special report webpage.
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