• Uncategorized

    Why Are Watches Always Getting More Expensive, And How Many Rolex Can Americans Buy In A Year?

    It is not too late to get to the topic. In fact, the watch industry launches new watches almost every day. But among these new watches, there are many watches that I do n’t even think are worth buying. The domestic bezels are crouching tigers and hidden dragons. If you take these watches out and write them, I think this is also not good for everyone who reads the article. Responsible (people should scold me). So, in the days when I do n’t write a new watch, I want to share with you some interesting things and stories I saw and encountered in the watch industry.
    Some time ago I saw some interesting data. These data record the year-on-year changes in luxury watch prices and inflation worldwide (in U.S. dollars) over the past 50 years. With this data, I want to share an interesting question with you, why are luxury watches becoming more expensive? How many watches can the people of the world buy each year? Is this number increasing or decreasing compared to the past?

    Ford’s third-generation Mustang in the 1980s (top) and Ford’s current Mustang (bottom)
    I know that almost all men who like watches are often interested in cars, so let’s take an example of a car. In 1984, the price of a Ford Mustang was $ 7088. If you convert the purchasing power of $ 7088 in 1984 to the present, it is equivalent to $ 16,444 now. The price of a Ford Mustang is now $ 32,000. So we can see that the current Mustang price is twice that of the 1984 Mustang, and more interestingly, the current Mustang price is V6, and the past Mustang is V8. Two tanks are missing, but the price has doubled. The well-known muscle car is like this, let’s take a look at what will happen in the watch.
    Again, let’s look at some data first. In 1957, the first generation of Rolex waterless ghosts was born. The price of this watch in 1957 was only $ 150. Then, the price of Rolex’s waterless ghosts has been rising from 1957 to now (I say a few price nodes), by 1980 it was $ 1,000, in 1992 it was $ 2,000, in 2000 it was $ 3,000, and in 2008 it exceeded $ 5,000 In 2010, it came to $ 6,000, and in 2014 it was $ 7,500. The price is getting higher and higher, some friends will definitely say that the current inflation situation. So let’s take a look at the inflation situation from 1957 to 2014. In 1957, the water ghost sold for $ 150, and the purchasing power from $ 150 to 2014 was equivalent to $ 1265. The price of the waterless ghost in 2014 is $ 7,500, which is 6 times for this $ 1265. In other words, the price of the water ghost has increased 6 times.

    Rolex first generation submariner (left) and Rolex cashless water ghost (right)

    Rolex’s price increase curve (black) from 1957 to 2014, and the currency inflation curve since 1957.
    After the water ghost, I also want to share with you another set of data I see, which is about the steel shell Daytona. I still come up with some price nodes to take a look. The Rolex Daytona was launched in 1964. By 1988 the price had reached $ 2,000, reached $ 4,000 in 1992, reached $ 8,000 in 2006, and reached $ 11,250 in 2012. Prices are rising all the way. Similarly, the price of $ 11,250 in 2012 was six times the purchasing power of Gandhi in 1973.

    There is also a very interesting statistic below. That is, in the past 50 years, the annual income (average income) of the American people can buy a few water ghosts and a few Gangdi (because this statistic is made by Americans, it is not suitable for our domestic situation, only For reference, I rounded up to the nearest whole number). The first is a waterless ghost. In 1957, the average annual income of the American people was 11 eleven water ghosts, 14 from 1970 to 75, 10 from 1992, and 6 to 7 from 2008 to 2012. As for the steel case Daytona, you can buy 10 in 1964, 7 in 1988, 5 in 2000, and basically 4 in 2008 and beyond.

    Starting from 1957, the American people can buy a few water ghosts in one year’s income (average income). The number on the red histogram is the number of watches that can be purchased. Note that the number on the histogram is accurate to three decimal places. , For example 11.094 only.

    Starting from 1957, the American people can buy several Daytona’s income (average income) in a year. The number on the red bar chart is the number of watches that can be purchased. Note that the number on the bar chart is accurate to 3 decimal places. Bit, for example 10.174 only.
    The above data and facts are already here. For whatever reason, luxury watches are always getting more and more expensive, which is an indisputable fact. Let’s take a look at why the price of luxury watches is getting higher and higher.

    The first reason is inflation, but we have also seen that inflation has an impact on watch prices, but only part of it. Someone used different calculation methods (including price consumption index, skilled worker’s salary level, etc.) to calculate how much the Rolex Gold Date JUST, which was priced at only 360 dollars in 1957, should be worth in 2012. The final calculated price is $ 2980 to $ 6,760. However, the price of Gold Date JUST in 2012 was 10,900 yuan. Compared to the calculated $ 2980 to $ 6,760, it can be seen that the price of watches has increased by 1.6 times to 3.6 times.
    So there are other reasons for the rising price of watches. Different people have different opinions on this issue. I think the first point among various reasons is that the added value in watches is getting higher and higher, which has led to a sharp rise in the price of luxury watches. Let’s use the example of a car first. Although the displacement of automobiles is getting smaller and smaller, the configuration of automobiles is getting higher and higher. There are more and more electronic devices and fewer engine cylinders, but with the increasing complexity of turbines, hybrids, and engine technologies, vehicle safety levels are getting higher and higher, and more and more processes are involved. Similarly, the 31 series movement used by the current Rolex 114060 waterless ghost is much more complicated and technically more advanced than the original water ghost’s oyster-type permanent magnet. The bezel symbolizing the technical characteristics of the diving watch has also changed from an aluminum ring to a ceramic ring, plus platinum characters. Now the size of watches is also getting larger, and the metals and precious metals used in a watch are larger. It can be seen that the improvement of the technical content and configuration of the watch itself is the main reason for the increasing price. The Rolex water ghost is a very typical example. We can see from the above data that the water ghost has completely changed from a ‘tool’ (tool table) to a ‘luxury accessory’ (luxury watch).

    Rolex’s first-generation Oyster Perpetual movement core. Note that the automatic top is not located on the assembly surface of the movement.

    Calibre 3135 is currently on sale. 3135 is one of the most famous movements in the watch industry.
    The next reason I agree with is the investment of watch brands. Because the technology and process configuration of luxury watches are getting higher and higher, this has led brands to add more production and process equipment to watch factories and invest in more factories. In contrast, investment in the construction of specialty stores and boutiques. At present, the construction of new watch factories and new boutiques is definitely more than at any time in the past. These large costs are allocated to each watch sold, which will further increase the price of the watch.

    The next is for sales considerations. Although the prices of some luxury watches sometimes drop slightly by 5%, the overall trend of watch prices is becoming more and more expensive. It’s like the price of LV goes up every year, and it’s never discounted. If the price of the watch is always reduced, assuming that the price of the water ghost 114060, which is more than 60,000 yuan, has suddenly dropped to 40,000 yuan, then people who bought water ghosts at high prices before will be grieved. The value of watch brands is shrinking. In addition, watches are a kind of luxury jewelry. Since it is luxury jewelry, many people will buy watches with the ‘investment’ mentality. I hope to see that the watch brand they buy is getting more and more expensive. This ‘demand’ also requires watches. Brands must increase the price of their watches on megatrends.

    Rolex New Ceramic Circle Daytona 116500

    Dark Side of Omega Speedmaster
    Although not everyone will agree, but I also think that watches and bags are good. As long as you see what you like, no matter the primary market or the secondary market, as long as the price is acceptable, you can buy it. Waiting blindly will only wait for higher and higher prices (excluding those brands that are often discounted and clear, and the brand value is not strong, so please pay attention to the distinction when buying watches and bags). The price increase is inevitable. The price of Rolex’s new ceramic ring Daytona is 116,500 more expensive than the previous generation Daytona. The dark side of the Omega Speedmaster is more expensive than any previous non-precious metal speedmaster. Because they are all true “luxury accessories”. Things that are getting cheaper are not called ‘luxury jewelry’.

  • Uncategorized

    Nomos Tangente Series Wempe Anniversary Watch

    Estimated price: $ 1440
    Including commission price: 6000 USD (about RMB 9835 yuan)
    [2003 / Starting price without reserve]
    【Overall description】
    Case diameter 35 mm, thickness 7 mm. Limited number 24/125. Made in 2003 to commemorate the 125th anniversary of Wempe, in good condition, rare, stainless steel three-piece case, polished and straight downward lugs, sapphire crystal, matte silver Dial, black Arabic numerals and baton-type hour markers, blue-steel baton-type hands, small seconds at 6 o’clock, stainless steel Wempe buckle, with case and certificate.
    [Movement configuration]
    TSP gold-plated copper movement, 3/4 plywood, 17 rubies, linear lever escapement, single metal balance, shock absorber, self-compensating balance spring, fine-tuning device, dial, case and movement are all signed, The movement is also engraved with the ‘Royal Madrid Crest’ logo and the red letter ‘WEMPE Madrid’ Logo.
    [Product Condition Report]
    Case 2 (excellent); Dial 1 (basic brand new), pointer 01 (original); movement 2 ** (excellent, requires a full inspection of the movement, buyer needs to pay); expert evaluation AA (very good) .
    评论 [Review]
    Among the many NOMOS limited editions, the Wempe Anniversary Limited Edition is one of the models with a relatively high appearance rate. As one of the first batch of German Air Force B-Uhr pilot watches during World War II and today’s Germany’s largest watch and jewellery chain, Wempe commissioned watches made by big-name watches to be regulars at auction. At Wempe’s 125th anniversary celebration, a total of 8 watch factories accepted Wempe’s orders. In addition to Nomos, 7 brands including Patek Philippe, Lange, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC, Chopard, Breitling were also listed. Among them, the “Wempe Special Edition” of the four brands of Patek Philippe, Lange, Cartier and IWC are most optimistic. This watch uses the ETA7001 movement, which is exclusively modified by Nomos. The modified 3/4 splint and unique sandblasting technology make the overall recognizability greatly improved. The letter combination TSP used by Nomos to represent the movement is the German acronym Triovis Feinregulierung, Sekundenstopp and Glash & uuml; tte 3/4 Platine / Plate.

  • watches

    This Is The Fun Of Limited Editionthree Limited Edition Luxury Watches

    Most of the following limited edition watches have the three characteristics described above. What’s more important is that you can’t necessarily buy them even if you queue up. However, this is the fun of limited editions, isn’t it?
    Bvlgari Assioma Semi-Perforated Complex Performance Watch

    Limited quantity: 20

       In 2007, Bvlgari launched the Assioma series of semi-hollow complex performance watches with a limited number of 20 pieces worldwide. The new model uses arched suspension with deep architectural aesthetics on both sides to provide the most solid and stable support for the entire watch structure Hold the case engraved with BVLGARI tightly. The delicate touch, the inlaid time scale, the layered dial and the light-proof sapphire mirror make this watch like a moving work of art.

       This complex watch also includes the time display performance of the perpetual calendar, automatic tourbillon and GMT. The entire movement is composed of 416 parts, but the diameter of the movement box is only 27.4mm, and the thickness is only 7.57mm, which can be described as ingenious.
    Ms. BLACNCPAIN ‘Lotus’ watch

    Limited quantity: 138

       Designed and distributed specifically for the Asian market, the global limited edition of 138 Blancpain ‘Lotus Watches’ breaks the tradition and is tailor-made for women. This model has a very bold and avant-garde edge design, mother-of-pearl dial with guilloche trim, natural and gorgeous. The original design of the irregular mother-of-pearl dial and eye-catching Arabic numerals make it more eye-catching, and the guilloché graphic is the icing on the cake. The white dial is inlaid with a ruby ​​bezel and red silk band, which is more comfortable to wear and shows noble temperament.
    Mido Multifunction Central Chronograph

    Limited quantity: 99

       Unlike other models, the central chronograph seconds and minutes hands are assembled at the center and equipped with separate counting rings, making it easier to read the time. At one time, it was a watch specifically designed for pilots by Mido in the 1940s.

       Unlike the previous version, a 12-hour chronograph lap and a separate small second lap are added to this 99 limited edition new model. The movement of the movement can be clearly seen from the transparent case on the back. The watch uses a large crown and chronograph buttons, which are unique and elegant in appearance and easier to operate. As always, Mido always brings a distinctive design. The crown and buttons are attached to the sturdy gemstone bevel, giving him unique characteristics. This watch is water resistant to 100 meters and has sapphire scratch resistance.

  • watches

    Classic Or Avant-garde, All In Square Inches Between

    I always think that watchmaking is not purely technical, but often it is the load of art. Think about the way that predecessors measured time, from the original sundial, clock, to watch, from a rock that is difficult to shake, to this small square place on the wrist, can’t help but lament human wisdom. And modern people have given watches a variety of shapes, common are round, rectangular, rare barrel type, octagon and even irregular shapes. Time brings to watchmakers infinite imagination, they paint every inspiration in every different work. When it is praised by future generations, it can be called a classic and a model. Today in this article, I will not go into details. I will present to you one of the five new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak series and Royal Oak offshore series watches. (The picture in the article comes from @Watch 之 家)

    Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore Watch
     I don’t know if anyone wants to say that there are more classics called ‘Classic’. But I think that only those that can stand the test, whether it is quality, or the aesthetics that are constantly changing from round to round, can be called timeless and classic as time goes by. . In 1972, Audemars Piguet introduced the first Royal Oak watch. Since then, it has become a milestone in the history of Audemars Piguet brand development.

    Gene composition: octagonal bezel, hexagonal screws, integrated bracelet, ‘TAPISSERIE’ checkered decoration

    Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Automatic Self-winding Watch 15500ST.OO.1220ST.01
     Stainless steel case, octagonal bezel, ‘TAPISSERIE’ checkered dial and strap integrated with the case. These designs that we take for granted now, in the 1970s, subverted the existence of tradition. In the previous history, fine watchmaking would not choose a ‘cheap’ material such as ‘steel’ as the watchmaking material, but it turns out that the stainless steel material is indeed more suitable for us to wear in daily life. Today, we can also find stainless steel watches in more fine watch brands.

    Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Automatic Self-winding Watch 15500ST.OO.1220ST.01
     The octagonal bezel also challenges Audemars Piguet’s tradition. Between the circle and the square, the octagon plays the line with its own characteristics. Until now, when we talk about the ‘octagonal bezel’, the first thing that comes to mind is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak series. When a brand is synonymous, no matter how hard the latecomers try, it is difficult to catch up with their predecessors.

    ‘TAPISSERIE’ checkered dial
     2019 is a new year for Audemars Piguet. After the launch of CODE11.59, people said that new things will one day replace old ones, and maybe its light will cover the Royal Oak series. I think that if there is one day, it shows that CODE11.59 has succeeded to a certain extent, but classics and future classics will not have the problem of who replaces them.

    Integrated case strap
     The integrated strap design of the case is the same from the beginning of the Royal Oak. The new 15500 adjusts the details of the chain links on the original basis to make the links more ergonomic. Some people are busy chasing, while others are busy improving.

    Octagonal case detail real shot

    Audemars Piguet Calibre 4302 automatic movement
     The long storage time of up to 70 hours firstly solves the problem that often requires adjusting the time when wearing a mechanical watch in daily life. After at least a weekend, when another annoying Monday arrives, its time is still accurate.

     Beauty, beauty, emphasis on beauty

    Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 26315OR.OO.1256OR.01
     Different from the traditional Royal Oak, this Royal Oak is different from it in terms of size, material and design. The new 15500 blue dial has a diameter of 41 mm, which can be controlled by most men. And this 38mm, 18K gold Royal Oak series looks more elegant and luxurious under the lens.

     Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 26315OR.OO.1256OR.01
     The design of the three auxiliary plates makes the level of the plate design elements more full. Maybe some people like the plain plate, and some people prefer the delicate layer design.

    The perfect fusion of plaid and chronograph

    Finely polished bracelet

     A long time ago, I took an Audemars Piguet watchmaking class. The watchmaker from Audemars Piguet taught the students how to polish a copper model in a balanced manner. Many people say that polishing is simple. Fine polishing just takes more time. Indeed, with a little more time and energy, you can have better quality. This is the secret of fine watchmaking, but many people still can’t understand it.

    Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 26315OR.OO.1256OR.01
     It is ‘spend more time’, Audemars Piguet has the status of watch table which is difficult to shake today, and it is precisely because of ‘spend a little more time’ that every Audemars Piguet work presented to us is worthy of us slowly taste.

    Break through, I just want to break the rules

    Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Collection

     I have seen a netizen explain ‘what is offshore’ in this way. He said that ‘offshore’ means ‘leave the shore’. In a certain sense, his explanation is quite accurate. To leave the hustle and bustle of city life, you need a wrist companion who can accompany you.


    Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 26400SO.OO.A055CA.01
     Twenty years after the launch of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Series, in 1993 Audemars Piguet launched the Royal Oak Offshore Collection. If the Royal Oak series is likened to a gentleman, then ‘Mr. Offshore’ is a tough guy full of male hormones.

    Ceramic crown and bezel detail real shot

    44 mm dial diameter, 14.4 mm case thickness

    Strap design with camouflage elements

    Camouflage strap detail
     Camouflage elements have only been used in the design of watches in recent years, but this is not the first time that Audemars Piguet has used camouflage. I remember that before this year, the brand had released a Royal Oak Offshore watch with camouflage brown dial. Officially, because the market has responded well, this year the brand launched more yuan options on camouflage elements.

    Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 26400SO.OO.A335CA.01
     The use of blue in watches has many different interpretations. Commercial interpretation, blue is more used in business style. Get rid of the inherent thinking, remembering that blue represents the ocean that shines in the bright sun. The deeper the sea, the darker the sea. The blue in front of you is lighter. Look down and you can see your feet. Take this blue royal oak offshore series and feel the sea breeze slowly.

    Stainless steel with blue ceramic bezel, “Méga Tapisserie” oversized checkered dial, chronograph buttons and crown also made of blue ceramic

    Bezel hexagonal fixing screws are also brand features

    Different shades of blue to restore the color of the sea

     Many articles comment on the offshore series saying this, it is Audemars Piguet’s ‘wilderer, more unruly’ design based on the Royal Oak. But I don’t think so, I think it is a more restrained interpretation of publicity.

    · Gold · Brown ·

    Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 26401RO.OO.A087CA.01

    Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 26401RO.OO.A087CA.01
     This watch is the first of five watches that I got in my hand, because I like it so much that I can show it. How could anyone combine metal and ceramic so well? How can anyone use extroversion and restraint so freely?

    Brown ceramic case and 18K gold case material, Audemars Piguet first applied brown ceramic to watches

    Brown ceramic case and 18K gold case details

    Crafted case side

    Camouflage brown strap detail shot

    Limited to 500 pieces, each back case is a work of art
     When the practical function of the watch is no longer the primary reason for us to buy it, the significance of the watch to us is more an art appreciation and beauty experience. For beauty, everyone’s standards and orientations are different. What’s great about Audemars Piguet is that it sculpts the classics of time and presents us with so many artworks.